Shoe and the method of making shoes



Jan. 1,521,353-

c. AUGUSTINE SHOE AND THE METHOD OF MAKING SHOES -Filed Feb. 8 1924Fig-3" mpg/7m I Patented Jan. 6, 1925.

UNITED STATES CHARLES AUGUSTINE, OF WASHINGTON, MISSOURI, ASSIGNOR TOINTERNATIONAL PATENT OFFICE.

SHOE COMPANY, OF ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI, A CORPORATION OF MISSOURI.

SHOE AND THE METHOD OF MAKING SHOES.

Application filed February 8, 1924. Serial No. 691,494.

T 0 all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, CHARLES AUGUSTINE, a citizen of the United States,residing at Washington, Franklin County, Missouri, have invented a newand useful Improvement in Shoes and the Methods of Making Shoes, ofwhich the following is a specification.

This invention relates to method of making shoes.

In the manufacture of shoes having what is commonly known as moccasinvamp two methods have been in vogue, one in which the vamp and tonguesection thereof have been formed in separate pieces, said pieces beingstitched together by hand; and the other in which the vamp as been madein one piece and a bead formed at the juncture of the vamp and tonguesections by sewing with a double needle three thread sewing machine aline of sitching around the section of the shoe and utilizing a cordsecured beneath the vamp blank to elevate the surface of the vamp toform the bead, thereby simulating the appearance of the hand sewedmoccasin vamp. This machine method of making what is commonly known asan imitation moccasin vamp has had several disadvantageous features, inthat the bead having a continuous surface with the body of the vampfails to simulate closely the true moccasin construction, andfurthermore it has been necessary to use a relatively light thread forthe stitching operation.

The present invention has for its object the making of a moccasin vampshoe by utilizing, the continuous blank to-form the vamp body and tonguesection, tracing a line around the juncture of the two sect-ions to cutthe grain, doubling the material in such way as to form a parallel seamsection, and sewing therethrough with a single needle two thread machinea row of stitching of relatively heavy waxed thread, thereby producing afinished product having the appearance of a hand made moccasin vamp.

The method is carried out according to the following detailed procedure,reference being made in the course of the disclosure to the accompanyingdrawing, in which- Fig. 1 is a plan View of a section of the shoe madeaccording to the invention.

of Fig. 3.

In practicing the invention a blank 1 formed of a single piece ofleather and shaped to form the vamp section of the shoe is first tracedon the line 2 with a sharp instrument that cuts through the surface ofthe leather to break the surface grain.

Breaking of the surface grain on the line 2 7 gives sufficientflexibility along the line to' permit the blank to be doubled back uponitself and operated upon by a single needle two thread lock stitchmachine, the line of stitching 3 being passed through the two parallellapped edges. The stitching operation opens up the crease formed by thetraced line 2 so .as toprovide when finished a raw edge 4 that gives theappearance closely simulating the raw edges of adjacent separated vampand tongue sections ordinarily found in the hand sewed moccasinstructure.

In the old method of making imitation moccasin shoes the stitch passedperpendicularly through the vamp blank on either side of a cord insertedbeneath the juncture line, and a third thread extended under the cord.This method of manufacture merely raised the head around the line ofseparation. Moreover, it was necessary also to use a relatively thinthread, whereas by the present.

method a waxed thread of relatively large diameter is used, the threadpassingtransyersely through the leather at the juncture me. a

After the Vamp section has been formed as described it may be utilizedin the completion of the shoe by sewing to the outer edgesthereof a sole5, and the upper of'the shoe is completed in any suitable manner.

What I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is 1. That methodofmaking imitation moccasinyamp shoes, which comprises in tracing a lineupon the vamp blank to define a juncture .between the vamp body andtongue section by cutting through the surface of the' material to breakthe surface grain; folding the blank along said traced line; and assinga transverse rowiof stitching around the folded portion below thesurface cut. I

2. That method of making imitation moccasin .yamp shoes, which comprisesin tracing a line upon the vamp blank to define a juncture between thevamp body and tongue section by cutting through the surface-of thematerial to, break the surface grain; folding the blank along saidtraced line; and stitching with a single needle two thread lock stitchwax coated thread a single row of stitching below said surface cut.

3. That method of making a shoe of the class described, which comprisesin cutting a traced line 'on the surface of the vamp blank to form alineof separation between the vamp body and tongue section so that thesurface grain of the material is cut through; folding the vamp blankalong said line; and passmg a row of stitches transversely across theline and through the vamp body below said line thereby opening thesurface of said cut to form a raw edged seam.

4. An imitation moccasin vamp shoe comprising a vamp body and a tonguesection made in one'pieceand having a line out through the surface atthe point of juncture of the two sections, and a row of stitchingextending through the vamp blank at a point below said line.

\ CHARLES AUGUSTINE.

